Learn to Surf

If you've been to Bali, or seen pictures of it--of the violent waves hitting the rocks at Uluwatu and Tanah Lot and the Rock Cafe (go and Google them), then you'd know that Bali is not an island meant for leisurely swims. Bali is the surf haven of Asia. It has excellent waves but lacks the calm, blue waters like the ones in Thailand for example, which is why I much prefer Thailand's beaches to Bali. I like a nice relaxing soak more than getting slapped by the waves every time I want to dip my feet in the water.

But last year, I decided to give surfing a try. In 2016, I had already tried body-surfing in Seminyak, so in 2017, I wanted to upgrade myself to a real surfboard. I chose Kuta because it was geared towards backpackers and so I assumed, also offered the cheapest prices.

There are many surf schools to choose from. Most of them have their own websites where you can read testimonials and make an early booking to secure your spot. Some offer multi-day surf camps which also cover the cost of your accommodation and meals. These are great for those who intend to take up the sport seriously or become professionals.

With my instructor

If you're like me, who only wants to get the feel of riding (baby) waves on a surfboard, take the cheaper option. Just go to the beach and talk to the guys who rent out surfboards all along the beach. They would usually be happy to provide a short lesson for a small fee. Most of them quote the same price, but you could try to haggle. I don't remember how much I paid. I think it was the equivalent of MYR20, which was around Rp60,000, for a one-hour board rental, inclusive of a 30-minute lesson. They also provided a rash guard.

First, we did the training on the sand. The instructor taught me how to lie facedown on the board with both my palms pressing down on it, on each side of my chest, as though preparing to do a push-up. Then, he showed me how to stand up and where to position my feet. After that, we proceeded into the water. I tried paddling but it was impossible to move forward as the waves kept pushing me back to the shore. So the instructor helped by pushing my board while I lay on it, bracing myself as the water splashed into my face.

When we reached far enough to catch a good wave, he turned me around and waited for the wave to come. Then he let go of the board and shouted at me to stand up. I got it right on the first try but my progress wasn't so consistent. Depending on the waves, sometimes I stayed upright till the shore, sometimes I fell as soon as I stood up.

Although the water was mostly shallow, some parts were quite deep, even close to the shore. If I hadn't had some basic swimming skills, I'm sure I would have panicked. But the fact that my leg was attached to the board by a string eased my fear a little because I knew I could always grab on to the board and use it as a floating aid.

Apparently, Kuta is the best beach to learn surfing for the first time, because the waves are among the smallest in Bali. So if you choose to have your first lesson here, you don't have to worry because you won't be the only beginner around.

As time went on, my energy steadily depleted and I was falling more and more. After the lesson was over, I was already so exhausted that I returned the surfboard even though I still had 30 minutes left. I seriously didn't think I would manage to paddle out into the waves under my own steam. It was a great experience but I really need to get in shape if I ever want to attempt it again.